Chamber of Commerce of Greater Cape May
Guidebook Editorial
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The region was explored in the early 17th century by the famous navigator, Henry Hudson, who, upon entering the South River in 1609, promptly ran aground in the shallow flood plain of the river which filled to become a bay after the last ice age. The English explorer Samuel Argall would later name the bay in honor of Lord De La Warre Governor of the Virginia colony. Hudson was exploring for the Dutch East India company and indeed, the early history of Cape May is one of Dutch exploration and exploitation. Hudson was followed in the 1620's by Captain Cornelius Jacobsen Mey, who sailed for the Dutch East India Company. It was Mey who named the peninsula in his own honor. The first recorded European land purchase on the peninsula occurred when a group of Dutch merchants acquired sixteen square miles of land from local Lenape indians as the site for a whaling colony. Although other Dutch whaling colonies were established in nearby Delaware, the Cape May settlement was never developed. England asserted its claim on the region in 1664 and the New Jersey colony was established. At that time New Jersey was divided in two with the portion bordering the Delaware Bay being known as "West Jersey." Principals in the early development of the region were Quakers seeking a haven in the New World from persecution in Europe. William Penn, Edward Byllynge and John Fenwick were instrumental in bringing order to the region and settlers began to move into the area. The settlers who came to Cape May, however, were not newcomers to North America. They were New Englanders who came upon the area while pursuing migratory whales down the Mid-Atlantic coast. These New England "Whaler-Yeomen" established the first settlement in Cape May on the shores of the Delaware Bay and called it Town Bank. In 1692 this small band of settlers received recognition of their settlement and the County of Cape May was formed in the West Jersey colony. Thirty-five families had moved to the area and were to dominate the economic, social, political and religious life of the peninsula for the next two centuries.
The early settlers were hard working simple people who turned their attention to the resources of the region. The ocean and bay yielded shellfish and fin fish and forests of Atlantic White Cedar and White Oak were harvested. As they migrated with the seasons, whales were hunted from barrier island whaling outposts. Agriculture was developed on the spine of the peninsula. Cape May also became a center for coastal trade, owing to the newly founded city of Philadelphia located miles up the Delaware Bay.
As early settlers consolidated their landholdings and developed plantation farms, two centers of commerce and population developed. In the north, Dennisville became a center for mercantile and industrial activity and in the south, Cape Island, later to be named Cape May, was home to fishermen, sailors, coastal traders and pilots, who would guide trans-Atlantic ships up and down the Delaware Bay to Philadelphia. In Cape May, a Court House was established between these two early towns to accommodate courts, a jail and other government institutions.
As Philadelphia grew in population and economic importance this city began to influence everyday life in Cape May. As early as 1766 "sojourners" from Philadelphia had begun to "resort" to Cape Island to escape the heat, filth and disease of the urban summer. Local residents began to offer accommodations to the travelers and America's Oldest Seashore Resort was born. Cape Island became a fashionable place to take the ocean waters, ride carriages for miles along hard packed sand beaches, enjoy fresh seafood and bask in cool ocean breezes. While the War for Independence slowed the development of this early tourism industry, once the new nation was formed, a serious commitment was made to the development of lodging and dining facilities in Cape Island and proprietors began to advertise their accommodations as early as 1801.
The situation is beautiful, just on the confluence of the Delaware Bay with the ocean in sight of the Light House. Carriages may be driven along the margin of the ocean for miles; and the wheels will scarcely make any impression in the sand, the slope of the shore is so regular that persons may wade out a great distance. It is the most beautiful spot the citizens can retire to in the hot season.
MID-ATLANTIC CENTER TROLLEY.
By 1850 there were twenty hotels in the city and the newest had just begun construction. The Mt. Vernon Hotel was touted as the largest hotel in the world, designed to accommodate 3000 guests and seat 2000 in the dining room. A grand era of tourism had been established in Cape Island. This era would end, however, with the increasing tensions between North and South that resulted in the Civil War. During the war tourism to the seaside town dropped by 80% and by the end of the war it was obvious that there would be no more gentlemen planters and their families vacationing in Cape Island.
It was in the post-war years that Cape May went through its first reincarnation. In 1863 a long-awaited rail line entered the city and a transportation link to the urban centers of the North was established. Northern industrialists brought their wealth to the resort and reinvigorated Cape Island as the "Queen of Seaside Resorts." The Victorian Era in Cape May was one of lavish hotels and seaside entertainment’s as well as the development of private resort homes. Much of Cape May's cherished architectural heritage was built during this period. The era was not without incident, however. In 1878 the tightly sited homes and hotels built of wood fell victim to a great fire which reduced 30 blocks of the town to ashes. Confidence and enthusiasm for the city was strong and the burned district was promptly rebuilt. The rebuilding of the 1880's is notable because local residents and local homeowners did not take the opportunity to build a new Cape Island. They rebuilt in the Gothic, American Bracketed and Queen Anne styles which had fallen out of fashion in many communities. The residents and vacationers of Cape May wanted to retain the "quaint seaside village" character of the town. It was this reverence for the past, a sense of nostalgia, which continues to characterize Cape May.
Demand for seaside recreation and vacation facilities eventually led developers to build resort towns on the five barrier islands which stood off the Atlantic coast of the peninsula. During the 1880's the resort communities of Ocean City, Sea Isle City, Avalon, Stone Harbor, and the Wildwoods were founded to accommodate the burgeoning numbers of middle class vacationers who flocked to the seaside. Competition from these "new" resort cities and the development of amusement attractions such as boardwalks and rides eclipsed Cape May's reputation as the premiere seaside resort and efforts to expand Cape May to both the east and west did not succeed. Cape May seemed determined to stay the quaint seaside village of the 1870's with elegant architecture, quiet tree-lined streets and walkable dimensions.
Cape Island became a living "time capsule" as it was passed over by developers who did away with the old to build the new. The barrier island resort communities followed fad and fashion, appealing to the growing middle class vacationer from nearby urban centers. A naval base, a grand hotel, visits from presidents, auto races between Henry Ford and Louis Chevrolet punctuated the 20th century history of Cape May but the crucial event which led to the Cape May of today took place in 1962. It was a storm, a devastating "Northeaster" which brought 20 foot high ocean waves and strong winds surging over the barrier island communities and through Cape May. The March 1962 storm, while not a hurricane, was the areas strongest storm in recorded history. Cape May was left a shambles. The promenade and ocean front were piles of building debris.The next incarnation of Cape May was about to begin and the process of restoring, preserving and interpreting the heritage of Cape May was to lead to a new era of tourism success for the "Queen of the Seaside Resorts."
HOTEL CAPE MAY
State and Federal aid were used to revive the languishing resort town in 1963 and 1964. A "promenade" was constructed atop a seawall along the city's beachfront as protection against future storms. Community leaders envisioned a Victorian Village rising from the storm's devastation. The National Register of Historic Places was established in 1966 and Cape May's architectural heritage was designated as the first "historic District" in 1976. A private religious college relocated to Cape May, acquired historic properties and prospered briefly. The Cape May-Lewes Ferry began service in 1964 establishing an important transportation link to the Cape. Increased attention was given to the preservation and protection of the fragile environmental resources of the region and efforts were launched to clean up the Delaware Bay and ocean waters.
Meanwhile, historic preservation in Cape May became controversial as city officials and preservationists debated the future of the city. In 1972 preservation minded candidates took office and set the course for Cape May's development into a premiere tourism destination. The Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts formed and the Emlen Physick Estate was purchased by the City of Cape May. The cornerstone for the Victorian historic district and a revitalized resort industry based on Cape May's Victorian heyday had been set.
With an historic district established, a pedestrian shopping mall constructed and the debris and deterioration cleared away, the stage was set for another new development in the history of the seaside resort; the development of "bed and breakfast" accommodations. Grand old homes were purchased by entrepreneurs who forecast a new type of tourism for the Victorian town. Their strategy was correct and today over 50 bed and breakfast inns dot the streets of Cape May. Overnight accommodations vary from full service luxury hotels on the beachfront to smaller family style motels just off the beach, to a delightful assortment of restored guest houses and apartments, to gracious old historic hotels. A sophisticated gourmet restaurant community has developed in Cape May and dining here is sure to be a memorable experience. The celebrated restaurants of Cape May offer endless choices from gourmet to deli-take-out from the relaxed elegance of formal dining rooms in restored homes to sidewalk cafes on the mall or beachfront.
CAPE MAY HARBOR
For those whose interests lie in outdoor activities, Cape May offers a complete selection. Besides boating and surfing, visitors find Cape May's harbor ideal for
both sail and power boating. Cape May's peninsular location and temperate climate make for excellent fishing practically the year 'round. Just a short jaunt from Cape May, golfers and horseback riding enthusiasts will find up-to date facilities await them. Tennis players will find the William Moore Tennis Center within walking distance on the grounds of the Physick Estate. Fifteen well-maintained clay courts are surrounded by gracious old shade trees. Bikers and joggers will be delighted to find themselves in Cape May, both in town on the promenade and in the outlying areas on quiet rural roads. For the cyclist there are several rental and repair shops located in town or bring your own wheels as many do.
For the walker, whether a dedicated hiker or a casual stroller, Cape May is perfection. One of the best ways to appreciate the fascinating city is to walk through it, not just once, but repeatedly. Pause to contemplate the wonder of intricate "gingerbread" shadows. Pause to savor the nostalgia of another day, another time. Today the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts provides a wide range of tours and programming for seasonal visitors and residents alike. Many house tours offer the visitor the opportunity to view the interiors of Cape May's restored treasures. Trolley tours and escorted walking tours demonstrate that in Cape May, historic preservation is alive and well. The Cape May Institute, founded in 1989, has also advanced Cape May's "cultural tourism" opportunities by offering seminars and workshops in photography, writing, theater, historic preservation and poetry. The Institute also sponsors Elderhostel (senior education/travel) programs throughout the year. Additionally, the Cape May Institute supports the Cape May Music Festival in conjunction with the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts. The historic seaside community hosts two professional theater companies, The East Lynne Company and the Cape May Stage. The Cape May County Art League is located on the grounds of the Emlen Physick Estate. Cape May is also the headquarters of the Cape May Historical Society in the "Colonial House" on Washington Street.
Cape May has long been famous for its myriad of birding opportunities. Spring and Fall are the great migration seasons and the city lies on the heavily traveled Eastern Flyway. Cape May Point State Park and the picturesque South Cape May Meadow, a 180 acre wildlife preserve complete with grazing cattle, sand dunes and sparkling seas, are a birder's Mecca year 'round. The Cape May Bird Observatory located in Cape May Point offers tours and classes. They also maintain a birding "hotline" (609) 884-2626. Growing interest in other aspects of the natural environment has led to the establishment of the Nature Center of Cape May which sponsors many programs for children and adults. The Center is located on Delaware Avenue on the south side of Cape May Harbor.
Cape Island's 19th century claim of being "cooler by 20 miles" is still true even though the ravages of wind, water and weather have changed its geography. Cape May enjoys the beneficial effects of being surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay. Cape May is warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer thanks to this "wrap around" coastline. And where else can you watch the sunrise and the sunset over the water?
Cape May is easily accessible by automobile. The city lies at the foot of the Garden State Parkway. Located 150 miles south of New York City, 120 miles east of Washington, D.C. and 80 miles south and east of the Philadelphia/Camden area. Cape May is an easy day's drive from most of the cities in the eastern half of the United States and a full day's drive from the major Canadian cities. New Jersey Transit bus transportation is available and the advent of Atlantic City Casino gaming has led to increased taxi and limousine service in the region. From southern points travelers will find the 70 minute mini-cruise aboard the Cape May-Lewes Ferry an added vacation pleasure.
On your way to or from the Jersey Cape you may also wish to visit nearby attractions. Batsto State Park in the Jersey Pine Barrens is readily accessible to those traveling south from North Jersey and New York. On the approach to Cape May from the Delaware River travelers may want to stop at Wheaton Village in Millville. An outstanding collection of American Glass and a full-size working replica of an 1888 glass factory will fascinate the casual visitor as well as the serious collector.
In Cape May County, the Wetlands Institute stands at the edge of the marshes along Stone Harbor Boulevard and offers educational exhibits and programs interpreting the wetlands to visitors. Just a few minutes north of Cape May visitors can travel back even further in time to the first half of the 19th century at Historic Cold Spring Village located on Rt. 9. Twenty historic buildings and a restaurant facility await the seasonal visitor. Another historic site in the same area is the Cold Spring Presbyterian Church. Known to locals as "Old Brick," it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and the headstones surrounding this historic house of worship are a Cape May history lesson.
Route 9, which parallels the Garden State Parkway through Cape May County, is a wonderful road for exploring the local scene. A number of antique shops line this historic route. In Cape May Court House there is a large public park and zoo. Just north of the park and zoo is the home of the Cape May County Historical and Genealogical Museum. Located in the John Holmes House the Museum features the treasured artifacts of Cape May County's founding families. A bit further north explorers will find Leaming's Run Botanical Gardens, a unique garden experience complete with dozens of annual flower beds, delicate ferneries, an underground lake and hummingbirds. From Cape May it's a short journey to Cape May Point. Here visitors will find the Cape May Point Lighthouse rising 157 feet and accessible to visitors from May through late November. The restoration of the Cape May Point Lighthouse has been undertaken by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts.
Sunset on the "SUNKEN SHIP"
A visit to "Sunset Beach" will introduce you to "Cape May Diamonds" quartz pebbles polished by ocean waves and the remains of a concrete ship, the Atlantis. To the east of Cape May lies the U.S. Coast Guard Training Center. It is here that all Coast Guard recruits take their "basic" training. The public is welcome to attend their regular Friday graduation ceremonies, summer Retreat Parades, and a variety of other events and exhibits such as exciting Air-Sea Rescue demonstrations. For a special evening of family fun Wildwood's boardwalk amusements and Atlantic City's casinos are both just a short drive up the Garden State Parkway.
Tulip Festival dancers
Cape May has truly become a resort for all seasons. There is no "best" time to visit, but an assortment of different times. The quieter times of spring and fall are favored by birders, families, and senior travelers. An increasing number of accommodations, restaurants and shops are open year 'round. In October Cape May revels in its Victorian heritage during "Victorian Week" identified as one of the "Top 100" events in North America. Beginning Columbus Day Weekend and running through the following weekend, Victorian Week, sponsored by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts, features seminars, workshops, lectures, entertainment, historic house tours and more.
Christmas in Cape May has become positively "Dickensian." Victorian houses decked out in seasonal finery, strolling carolers, theater and musical events, special tours day and night and an opportunity to discover that "just right" gift in Cape May's unique shops make Cape May a "must" between Thanksgiving and the New Year. Many restored bed and breakfasts open their homes for tours and help you relive holiday traditions in "Victorian fashion."
Considering Cape May's superlative natural beauty, its centuries of history and current efforts to preserve the heritage of the past, it is no wonder that today "sojourning" in Cape May has become so popular. Whether you come for birding, bathing, cycling, history, music, theater, shopping, antiquing, dining or the pursuit of relaxing leisure this quaint seaside Victorian resort will suit your taste. Check the calendar of major events for festivals, celebrations and cultural programming when you schedule your visit. First time visitors to Cape May always depart planning their next visit. Thank you for letting the Chamber of Commerce of Greater Cape May help you plan your visit. See you in Cape May!